Craftwashing by FabIndia: The Silent Threat to Authenticity in Artisanal Goods

In recent times, a new term has emerged that poses a significant threat to the authenticity and integrity of traditional crafts: “craftwashing.” Much like its better-known counterpart, greenwashing, craftwashing refers to the superficial adoption and misrepresentation of traditional crafts by brands, without honoring their true essence, processes, and cultural significance. This practice has been highlighted by recent incidents involving the prominent lifestyle brand, Fabindia Limited.

The Fabindia Controversy

Last month, Madan Meena, an artist and anthropologist specializing in nomadic and tribal communities of north and western India, called out Fabindia on Instagram for selling resist block printing home products labeled as Ajrakh. Both resist block printing and Ajrakh are traditional textile techniques from India, but they have distinct characteristics, processes, and cultural significance, as recognized by their respective geographical indications (GIs).

Fabindia responded with a public apology, acknowledging the misrepresentation as an inadvertent error and promising to rectify it immediately. They removed the misnomer and any related craft process information from their products. However, this incident was just the beginning.

A Pattern of Misrepresentation

Another case soon surfaced, brought to light by Amarnath Shetkar, a Bidriware artisan-entrepreneur from Karnataka. Shetkar accused Fabindia of selling foiled and printed wall plates as Bidriware. Bidri, a GI-tagged craft, involves intricate metal inlay work done by hand on blackened soil from the Bidar region of Karnataka. The mere resemblance to Bidriware does not warrant the use of its name.

Shetkar, supported by civil society organizations like Creative Dignity, gathered historical, academic, and GI data to substantiate his claims, highlighting the dignity and rootedness of the artisan community and their design processes. This ongoing pattern of misrepresentation by a leading brand like Fabindia, whose USP and brand foundation is artisanal goods, demands immediate attention and reflection.

The Broader Issue of Craftwashing

The term “craftwashing” was coined by craft practitioner Meeta Mastani in 2021 amid the controversy involving designer Sabyasachi and HM over the digital reproduction of Sanganeri prints for fast fashion clothes. Craftwashing involves brands superficially adopting traditional crafts without honoring their true essence, processes, and cultural significance.

This practice has far-reaching implications. Information dissemination through promotion or storytelling warrants authenticity and transparency as it is a consumer’s right. If established brands with ample resources falter, smaller brands in the crafts space can easily fall through the cracks. Countless instances of misrepresentation can be found on most websites selling ethnic items, highlighting the need for greater scrutiny and accountability.

A Call to Action

The recent controversies involving Fabindia serve as a stark reminder of the importance of maintaining the authenticity and integrity of traditional crafts. Brands must go beyond superficial adoption and honor the true essence, processes, and cultural significance of these crafts. Consumers, too, have a role to play by demanding transparency and authenticity from the brands they support.

Fabindia has responded to the recent allegations with an apology and a commitment to rectifying the issues. In their statement, they said:

> “Thank you for bringing this to our attention. We sincerely apologize for the inadvertent categorization. Fabindia deeply values the authentic crafts of India and the incredible skills of Indian artisans. We are taking measures to rectify the issue immediately.”

While this response is a step in the right direction, it is crucial for all stakeholders to remain vigilant and proactive in safeguarding the rich heritage of traditional crafts.

Conclusion

Craftwashing is a serious issue that undermines the authenticity and integrity of traditional crafts. The recent incidents involving Fabindia highlight the need for greater accountability and transparency in the promotion and sale of artisanal goods. By honoring the true essence, processes, and cultural significance of traditional crafts, brands can ensure that they contribute to the preservation and promotion of these valuable cultural assets.

Let us spread this message to reach Fabindia Limited and advocators of craft practices, and to advocate for the authenticity and integrity of traditional crafts.